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	<title>Ports 1961 &#8211; MING&#039;S</title>
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		<title>MING’S 為你實時直播｜PORTS 1961 FW22 成衣系列時裝騷</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-fw22-%e7%b1%b3%e8%98%ad%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-342548/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:09:34 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Runway]]></category>
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		<title>【時裝札記】PORTS 1961 最新春夏系列為極簡主義帶來昇華</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-runway-minimalism-302122/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Cherie Kong]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2020 08:59:27 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>ATYPICAL FLORAL LANGUAGE</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-loewe-loro-piana-237655/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Sarah Lam]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 31 Jan 2019 16:00:02 +0000</pubDate>
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		<category><![CDATA[Anais Jourden]]></category>
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		<title>法式女生造型方程式 靈感源自百變女神 Jane Birkin &#124; 時尚考古學</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/jane-birkin-%e6%99%82%e5%b0%9a%e8%80%83%e5%8f%a4%e5%ad%b8-jeanne-damas-201749/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Sarah Lam]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Aug 2018 11:03:43 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Alexa Chung]]></category>
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		<title>巴黎潮店Colette背後的男人　Milan Vukmirovic</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/colette-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e8%a8%ad%e8%a8%88%e5%b8%ab-ports-1961-42979/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Crystal Yung]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Mar 2017 10:21:01 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Story]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[colette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Milan Vukmirovic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ports 1961]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[時裝設計師]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[訪問]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>訪問當日在一間酒店頂層的餐廳，眼前美麗的維港景色並沒有吸引筆者的注意，我靜靜地等候着Milan Vukmirovic的出現，“Hello! How are you?” Milan面帶笑容，送來一句富活力而且誠懇的問候，有別於一般外國人隨口而出的“Hello! How are you?” 坦白說，Milan散發的親切感令我有點驚訝，因為每次在street snap的出現他都是cool爆的。 &#160; street style maven &#160; Milan Vukmirovic這個名字可能對於大家來說有點陌生，但如果你有留意各大street snap網站，你一定會看過他的照片：skin head、多於六呎的身高、aviator太陽眼鏡，簡單且富細節的造型，偏愛military style；Milan可說是第一代的street style star。大部分人對Milan的認識來自街拍，包括筆者，原來他在時尚圈一直有很多不同的角色：巴黎概念店Colette 的co-founder及buyer、攝影師、造型師和編輯。2015年，他出任Ports 1961男裝系列的創意總監，重回設計師之列。 偏愛military style的設計師把軍事元素融入系列中 &#160; &#160; 加入品牌Milan直言是筍工，「初次與Ports 1961的CEO和同事開會，他們已一一檢閱了我之前的作品及街拍照片，他們喜歡我的穿衣風格，想我把個人風格帶到Ports 1961的男裝。我常對朋友說，這實在是一份dream job！可以隨心所欲，設計我喜歡穿著的服飾，因此我以非常誠懇的態度去對待。相比起我之前工作的品牌，這裏有很大的自由度，以前做設計我要考慮很多因素，潮流、競爭對手，我有journalism的背景，我會自動顧及到記者編輯們的角度，我想得太多。在這裏我以個人的喜好出發，嘗試設計一些市場上缺乏的item，數年前我開始健身，我發覺很多時裝品牌的設計只有skinny的身材才穿得好看，大碼人穿著就個失去衣服本身的比例。 」 “basic but not in a boring way” &#160; Ports 1961的男裝系列以Milan認為男士應該擁有的essential wardrobe為設計方向，2017春夏系列有設計師最喜歡的military風格，恤衫和褲款以軍事元素的刺繡點綴；不嚴肅的恤衫設計，以星星和心形重新演繹的迷彩印花，衣服剪裁都寬鬆舒適，可以說這&#8221;very Milan&#8221;的一個系列。 &#160; 滿有細節的恤衫是Milan每季的拿手好戲 &#160; 「Colette表示想開始一個新的業務，她厭倦了當時的生意，我對她說，我們為什麼不開設一間商店，我們可以把所有喜歡的東西放在那裏。數天後我寫了一個proposal，我覺得這間商店要成為巴黎人及外國人的聚腳地。」 &#160; from Colette to Gucci [&#8230;]</p>
<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk/colette-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e8%a8%ad%e8%a8%88%e5%b8%ab-ports-1961-42979/">&lt;span class=&quot;zh&quot;&gt;巴黎潮店&lt;/span&gt;Colette&lt;span class=&quot;zh&quot;&gt;背後的男人&lt;/span&gt;　Milan Vukmirovic</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk">MING&#039;S</a>.</p>
]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-42984" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_14-54-52.jpg" alt="1981" width="900" height="854" /></p>
<p>訪問當日在一間酒店頂層的餐廳，眼前美麗的維港景色並沒有吸引筆者的注意，我靜靜地等候着Milan Vukmirovic的出現，“Hello! How are you?” Milan面帶笑容，送來一句富活力而且誠懇的問候，有別於一般外國人隨口而出的“Hello! How are you?” 坦白說，Milan散發的親切感令我有點驚訝，因為每次在street snap的出現他都是cool爆的。<br />
&nbsp;</p>
<h2>street style maven</h2>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
Milan Vukmirovic這個名字可能對於大家來說有點陌生，但如果你有留意各大street snap網站，你一定會看過他的照片：skin head、多於六呎的身高、aviator太陽眼鏡，簡單且富細節的造型，偏愛military style；Milan可說是第一代的street style star。大部分人對Milan的認識來自街拍，包括筆者，原來他在時尚圈一直有很多不同的角色：巴黎概念店Colette 的co-founder及buyer、攝影師、造型師和編輯。2015年，他出任Ports 1961男裝系列的創意總監，重回設計師之列。</p>
<h5><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter wp-image-42987" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_14-58-38.jpg" alt="07" width="800" height="533" /><br />
偏愛military style的設計師把軍事元素融入系列中</h5>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
&nbsp;<br />
加入品牌Milan直言是筍工，「初次與Ports 1961的CEO和同事開會，他們已一一檢閱了我之前的作品及街拍照片，他們喜歡我的穿衣風格，想我把個人風格帶到Ports 1961的男裝。我常對朋友說，這實在是一份dream job！可以隨心所欲，設計我喜歡穿著的服飾，因此我以非常誠懇的態度去對待。相比起我之前工作的品牌，這裏有很大的自由度，以前做設計我要考慮很多因素，潮流、競爭對手，我有journalism的背景，我會自動顧及到記者編輯們的角度，我想得太多。在這裏我以個人的喜好出發，嘗試設計一些市場上缺乏的item，數年前我開始健身，我發覺很多時裝品牌的設計只有skinny的身材才穿得好看，大碼人穿著就個失去衣服本身的比例。 」</p>
<p><img decoding="async" class="aligncenter wp-image-42982" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_14-54-29.jpg" alt="19" width="800" height="533" /></p>
<h2>“basic but not in a boring way”</h2>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
Ports 1961的男裝系列以Milan認為男士應該擁有的essential wardrobe為設計方向，2017春夏系列有設計師最喜歡的military風格，恤衫和褲款以軍事元素的刺繡點綴；不嚴肅的恤衫設計，以星星和心形重新演繹的迷彩印花，衣服剪裁都寬鬆舒適，可以說這&#8221;very Milan&#8221;的一個系列。<br />
&nbsp;</p>
<h5><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter wp-image-42981" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_14-54-22.jpg" alt="13" width="800" height="533" /><br />
滿有細節的恤衫是Milan每季的拿手好戲</h5>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
「Colette表示想開始一個新的業務，她厭倦了當時的生意，我對她說，我們為什麼不開設一間商店，我們可以把所有喜歡的東西放在那裏。數天後我寫了一個proposal，我覺得這間商店要成為巴黎人及外國人的聚腳地。」<br />
&nbsp;</p>
<h2>from Colette to Gucci</h2>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
對於Milan多采多姿的時尚旅程，不得不提令全世界時裝都迷趨之若鶩的巴黎概念店Colette，他是其創辦人之一。原來Milan與Colette Rousseau識於微時。「在時裝學院畢業後，我和朋友建立了一個時裝品牌並在倫敦打響名堂，Harrods購入我們的系列，Colette亦是因此而發現了我；另外，當時我的系列在一間店寄賣，我什麼都要做，由設計、包裝、invoice到櫥窗設計，每一至兩個星期我會替店舖更換新櫥窗，Colette很喜歡我的idea，她邀請我為她當時的fast fashion生意做櫥窗設計，就這樣我們成為好朋友。有一次，我、Colette及Sarah（Lerfel，Colette女兒）一同晚飯，Colette表示想開始一個新的業務，她厭倦了當時的生意，我對她說，我們為什麼不開設一間商店，我們可以把所有喜歡的東西放在那裏。數天後我寫了一個proposal，我覺得這間商店要成為巴黎人及外國人的聚腳地，他們不需要到很多店舖尋找想要的東西，這裏有時裝、有家品、有玩具……同時，他們可以與朋友在此午餐，或看一個展覽。他們不一定要購物，但總可以看看有什麼新產品。」在Colette開業前，rue Saint Honore就只有Hotel Costes和免稅店，誰會想到Colette會在這條狹窄的小街道掀起一場時尚革命？Colette開業二十年，Milan認為該店的理念仍然與當初一樣，但它亦經歷了一個強烈的演變，「以前是由我做window installation，現在比較品牌主導；以前有多一點家具，現在就多一些電子產品。」<br />
&nbsp;</p>
<h5><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-42991" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_17-59-59.jpg" alt="une-1410x630" width="1410" height="630" /><br />
Colette的出現成為潮童與時裝人到巴黎的打卡聖地，亦開始了concept store的先例。</h5>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
&nbsp;<br />
Colette之後，Milan選擇了Tom Ford，「離開Colette是因為我想重回設計，我讀design出生，我是一個設計師。99年Tom Ford打電話給我，問我是否有興趣加入Gucci做design director，你知道當時Gucci正處於如日中天的階段，how can I say no to Tom!!? 我知道如果不離開Colette，我的生活只會一成不變。與Tom Ford共事期間我真是獲益不少，Tom非常善於營銷以及如何開發accessories lines，現在所謂的it bag、it shoes其實是源自Tom。另外，他獨具慧眼，當年，我跟他在倫敦的studio工作，坐在我旁邊的是Christopher Bailey、Francisco Costa和Clare Waight Keller，他們分別加入了Burberry 、Calvin Klein 和Chloé，我們都成為不同品牌的創意總監，Tom看人自有一套，他富遠見，我很尊重他。」<br />
&nbsp;</p>
<h2>inspirational talk with Richard Avedon</h2>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
Gucci之後Milan來到Jil Sander，在此他遇到Richard Avedon，已故著名時尚攝影師，他是令Milan決意成為攝影師的人。「因為Jil Sander的關係，我有幸與Richard Avedon製作campaign。與你一樣，我也是他的超級粉絲。當年到他的studio傾談campaign事宜，他差不多八十歲，拍攝當日氣氛嚴肅得很，每個人包括我自己都戰戰兢兢。之後，我在米蘭有機會與Richard食飯，我向他透露我對攝影很有興趣，我一直購買並收集相片，但從來沒有拍過照片。他鼓勵我嘗試，生命短暫，不要帶着遺憾離開。」就這樣，Milan開始了攝影，有一年他以假名發布作品，反應出奇地熱烈，問他為何用假名，「大家以為fashion industry很開放，其實不是；當年，圈內大多數人只專注一種工作，他們對於一兼多職不太接受。」《L&#8217;Officiel Hommes》於2005年再次發行，找來Milan做主編，他的附帶條件是同時讓他負責時裝大片的拍攝工作。這可算是他作時裝攝影的開始。</p>
<h5><img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-43000" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_18-16-01.jpg" alt="m" width="1069" height="723" /><br />
Milan為自己一手創立的男裝雜誌拍攝每期時裝大片</h5>
<p>&nbsp;<br />
&nbsp;<br />
「我相信每個成功故事，不管它是一個時尚品牌，一本雜誌或一套電影，所有創作，它必須是誠實、誠懇並有且靈魂。」<br />
&nbsp;<br />
訪問尾聲時，筆者問Milan可否告訴我一些鮮為人知的事情，他坦言過去做了那麼多訪問，而他又是一個很開放的人，其實大家應該都了解他，「你這個問題很難答，真的很難答……人們大概不知道我是一個很passionate的人，有時候我令人感到為難，但我覺得你要爭取自己相信的，我的性格絕不容易妥協；我相信每個成功故事，不管它是一個時尚品牌，一本雜誌或一套電影，所有創作，它必須是誠實、誠懇並有且靈魂。如果你做事時只顧及公司、市場或生意，無錯，你會賺錢，但我討厭這種態度，而最後得來的是一樣沒有靈魂的東西。I’m fighting for what I believe。 」<br />
&nbsp;<br />
<img loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter wp-image-43007" src="https://www.mings-fashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/2017-03-23_18-30-52.jpg" alt="IMG_8874" width="200" height="200" /></p>
<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk/colette-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e8%a8%ad%e8%a8%88%e5%b8%ab-ports-1961-42979/">&lt;span class=&quot;zh&quot;&gt;巴黎潮店&lt;/span&gt;Colette&lt;span class=&quot;zh&quot;&gt;背後的男人&lt;/span&gt;　Milan Vukmirovic</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk">MING&#039;S</a>.</p>
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		<title>Ports 1961 &#8220;HOLIDAY FEELING&#8221;── Spring / Summer 2017 Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e6%98%a5%e5%a4%8f-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-185858/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2016 05:25:20 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961 &#8220;Contrasting&#8221;── Spring / Summer 2015 Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e6%98%a5%e5%a4%8f-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-187046/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jan 2014 04:04:12 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961 &#8220;Desert Sunset&#8221;── Spring / Summer 2014 Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e6%98%a5%e5%a4%8f-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-189081/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Oct 2013 03:47:41 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961── Spring / Summer 2011 New York Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e6%98%a5%e5%a4%8f-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-181321/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Oct 2010 05:20:24 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961 ── Fall / Winter 2010 New York Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e7%a7%8b%e5%86%ac-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-177394/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 27 Mar 2010 06:36:35 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961── Spring / Summer 2010 New York Fashion Week</title>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 06:45:20 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports1961── 2009-2010 Autumn Winter New York Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e5%ae%ae%e5%bb%b7-%e5%8d%b0%e5%ba%a6-174078/</link>
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		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Mar 2009 05:30:46 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961 ──2009 Spring Summer New York Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e6%98%a5%e5%a4%8f-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-173165/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Oct 2008 10:34:36 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Ports 1961── Autumn / Winter 2008 New York Fashion Week</title>
		<link>https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e7%a7%8b%e5%86%ac-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-179711/</link>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[MING'S]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Mar 2008 06:25:57 +0000</pubDate>
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					<description><![CDATA[<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e7%a7%8b%e5%86%ac-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-179711/">Ports 1961── Autumn / Winter 2008 New York Fashion Week</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk">MING&#039;S</a>.</p>
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										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The post <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk/ports-1961-%e7%a7%8b%e5%86%ac-%e6%99%82%e8%a3%9d%e5%91%a8-179711/">Ports 1961── Autumn / Winter 2008 New York Fashion Week</a> appeared first on <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.mings.hk">MING&#039;S</a>.</p>
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