沒有人能抵抗花的誘惑,正如沒有人能逃過 LOEWE 這次秀場的主角—火鶴花,創意總監 JONATHAN ANDERSON 延續 2023 男裝系列的超現實和趣味時尚,將花卉立在顯眼的秀場中央,以挑戰比例的剪裁和廓形,為大家帶來視覺效果滿滿的驚喜。
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一朵巨大而紅艷的火鶴花直挺挺地聳立在白磁磚上,預示了整場秀的重點,JONATHAN ANDERSON 繼續探討大自然和超現實主義的結合,毫不修飾地將花瓣放在連衣裙之上,突兀而令人難以忽視。火鶴花的花瓣質感特別,有種離奇的塑膠感,如同他想傳達的訊息一樣:「到底甚麼才算真實?」加上火鶴花艷麗的本體下藏著輕微的毒性,和「蛇蠍美人」的意思似乎不謀而合。
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這一季在衣服廓形上也有不少挑戰,短得似上衣的連身裙採用荷葉邊設計像喇叭般散開,梯形的素淨色裙擺被僵硬化,令設計停留在 2D 和 3D 之間。物料上,以琺瑯金屬製成的的連身裙畫上碎花,遠看宛如瓷器般光滑堅硬。以真絲製作的裙裝以皺摺呈視,充滿垂垂感,俄黃色、亮藍色的粉嫩色系更是令人心情愉悅。
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不得不提的自然是如同「起格」的像素設計上衣,像 MINECRAFT 出來的人物一樣,衣服的邊界被黑色方格模糊,看起來「假」得如平面,如同 JONATHAN ANDERSON 所說「這種突然打破模式的奇怪錯覺」再一次探索虛擬和現實的交界。這件「假得不行」的上衣更是掀起無數討論,看來 JONATHAN ANDERSON 的鬼才設計之路還有很長。
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