這次的 2023 春夏男裝系列,PAUL SMITH 以時裝帶大家一窺 1980 年代倫敦街頭:耀眼的太陽照亮了整個城鎮,畫廊之間的人熙熙攘攘,夾雜著木頭和乾顏料的氣味,兩名年輕男子在人群中穿插而過,年長的成熟而不加以修飾,素衣也掩蓋不了他沉穩而冷峻的氣息,另一位年輕但眼裡有光,輕盈的步伐配上清冷的臉孔,有活力而不張揚。這兩位男子結合起來就是這次 PAUL SMITH 2023 春夏秀場的代名詞,飽和度低的素色搭配和含蓄但不低調的條紋印花,看完令人想來一杯清新的檸檬梳打。
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PAUL SMITH SS23
條紋和寛鬆外套是 1980 年代不可忽略的男裝元素,自然也是這次系列的常客,從條紋裇衫作打底,到橙色直紋裇衫和鮮明的天藍色橫紋衛衣,以對比色和條紋粗幼塑造輕盈的層次感。”RELAXED. LAIDBACK. LOUCHE.” 以上三個字足以總結是次系列的特色。蓬鬆的空氣感從剪裁和廊形上體現,寛鬆的裇衫長褲加上飄逸的絲綢和尼龍布料,被絲滑的 CAR COAT 外套包裹著,每一套造型都如置身在夏日微風中般清涼。正裝西裝的「THREE-PIECE SUIT」亦被改造成單穿馬甲、OVERSIZED 短褲和束帶夾克,更添休閑現代感,重新詮釋了傳統的男裝規範。
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作為玩弄顏色的老行家,PAUL SMITH 將 SS23 男裝系列以柔和的 PASTEL TONE 色調作主基調,涵蓋淡紫色、開心果綠色、灰色、鈷藍色和粉藍色,簡簡單單的西裝以米色打底,再以 AIRBRUSHING 技術添上淺淺的黃藍對比色,清淡而不失風采。這次的花卉叢林印花則向 1980 年代的藝術和建築致敬,用手繪技術、絲網印刷和噴槍技術塑造朦朧的效果,靈感運用在裇衫、風衣和手袋上。GLOW POLKA 的霓虹燈印花則是從當代燈光裝置中汲取靈感,令人想起當代藝術家 JAMES TURRELL 的橢圓形燈飾藝術品,粉彩色的光暈似乎點亮了整個夏天。
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不得不說 PAUL SMITH 老爺子還是活力四射的,看看他除了和一眾模特兒歡快大合照外,還帶著他們走上大街,將巴黎街頭搖身一變成為伸展台,似乎在體現 SS23 的衣服的實穿性有多高,走在街上也不顯突兀,如同標題所說的「鹽系男子」,看似是不起眼的調味品,卻是整道菜不可或缺的存在,看似低調,卻令人挪不開眼。
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PAUL SMITH AND HIS MODELS
這次秀場嘉賓包括 《TENET 天能》HIMESH PATEL、《THE UMBRELLA ACADEMY 雨傘學院》JUSTIN MIN、音樂人 SAMUEL、設計師 YINKA ILORI 等,各人衣著都與這個亮橙色秀場有種特別的默契,例如 JUSTIN MIN 的橙色長褲和 DOMINIQUE JADE TIPPER 的黃色絨面西裝,確實充滿活力。
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JUSTIN MIN IN PAUL SMITH
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DOMINIQUE JADE TIPPER IN PAUL SMITH
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SOPE DIRISU IN PAUL SMITH
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HIMESH PATEL IN PAUL SMITH
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SOPE DIRISU, DOMINIQUE TIPPER, REUBEN JAMES, HIMESH PATEL, MOSES BOYD, HARRY TREVALDWYN AND SAMUEL ATTEND THE PAUL SMITH'S SS23 MEN'S PARIS SHOW
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